On a search for the best spots to see the Redwoods, I set out on an exploration, one that would bring me amongst tall trees and a Jurassic-like environment. A visit to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park in northern California supplied me with that and more. Picturesque drives, easy accessibility and short strolls through this otherworldly place will make you wonder why you explored anywhere else.
If you only have time for one stop in the Redwoods, make it here! It’s beyond worthy and way better than all of the other groves I got to explore!
About Jedediah Smith Redwoods SP
Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park is home to a multitude of ancient trees. So many in fact that it holds 7% of all the old-growth Redwoods left in the world.
Its forests also hold a world record for carbon storage above ground at nearly 2600 metric tons of carbon per hectare. In layman’s terms, that’s the equivalence of 113,443 trash bags of waste being recycled instead of thrown in a landfill. That number alone could also charge 331,532,028 smartphones in one year!
Click here for current park info/closures for Jedediah Smith
Exploring Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park
My original plan when coming to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park wasn’t to hike 7 miles like I did in the end. Originally I was just going to drive the 6 mile Howland Hill Road and maybe stop at a couple of pull offs. I hear this drive is even better than the Avenue of the Giants so it was a no-brainer to try and see it.
Pulling up to the entrance, I’m met with a gate closure that says the road’s shut down until the weekend. Searching for something else to do, I find a trail online with the trailhead only being about a mile from this spot.
Since the journey I went through in Jedediah Smith Redwoods SP was more than intended, I end up hiking a portion of 3 different trails in the area. The first is the Jedediah Smith Trail, a portion of the Stout Memorial Grove Trail and the Summer Bridge Crossing to the Mill Creek Trail.
Jedediah Smith Redwoods River Trail
My journey through Jedediah Smith Redwoods SP begins on the River Trail. While the entire hike is 1 mile out and back, I only trek it for about 0.5 miles. Neon ferns and mossy logs dominate the landscape on this portion of the trail as it runs parallel with the Smith River.
Apparently this Jurassic-like environment was used in the filming of Star Wars’ Return of the Jedi. I read about how George Lucas wanted a ‘primitive look’ for the scenes in the movie. Seeking a ‘jungly kind of place’ with a ‘cradle of life environment.’ I think it’s safe to say he definitely found the place for it!
With only a few Redwoods here, the real pay off for the hike is a half mile in where the massive Redwoods on the Stout Memorial Grove Trail appear.
Stout Memorial Grove Trail
One of the more beautiful Redwood groves I’ve been in is a part of the half mile loop of the Stout Memorial Grove Trail. Wrapping around vibrantly-colored Redwoods and a stark ground of pine needles, the trees rise up so high you can’t even capture them all in a photo.
Walking through the area of the ever-growing Redwoods, fallen timbers lie helplessly near the base of some, cut out just wide enough to walk through.
About the time I’m finished with this trail, a solo hiker walks by asking if we’re going to see the Titan Grove. Unsure about what he’s referring to, we inquire of the location. He says it’s on a non-advertised trail that we can find as long as we cross the Summer Bridge over the creek. As fast as he comes he leaves, only supplying the coordinates. This brings us to the edge of the creek.
Summer Bridge Creek Crossing
Technically the spot to cross the creek is called ‘Summer Bridge.’ This basically means that the creek crossing is only possible towards the end of summer and fall when the water is low. Visiting in October, it’s the perfect opportunity to see what mysteriousness exists beyond the creek.
Attempting to go to the mouth of where the creek feeds into the river, we make it to a small isle before abandoning this route. The 5 foot gap is too wide for me to cross here. Retracing our steps back to the original side of the bank, I find a somewhat-sturdy log and decide this will be my bridge. I make it across easier than I thought.
Mill Creek Trail
And now for the most epic part of the Jedediah Smith Redwoods SP journey, the Mill Creek Trail. And boy did we hit this place at the right time. You MUST visit in October through December to get these incredible golden colors!
Coming across that log and rounding back towards the mouth of the creek flowing into the Smith River, we emerge through the brush on the banks. The vegetation around us opens up to the most massive grove of Redwood trees. Trail signage is our clue that there actually is a legitimate trail over here and that’s when we see the name of it: Mill Creek Trail.
Still pondering over why the trail isn’t advertised, we keep walking to chase the coordinates supplied by that solo hiker. The only way we can track the location is by putting it in Google Maps and, without service, manually mapping our way there following the designated trail.
While the entire trail is about 8.5 miles, we only hike about 2 miles of it from the mouth of the creek to an otherworldly place. And this was when I stumble upon a hidden gem.
Grove of Titans
Unbeknownst to me, among the ancient trees here is the tallest grove of Redwoods in the entire world.
About 2 miles in, we see that solo hiker sitting on a stump further down the trail. Approaching him, he gives us a big smile and a ‘You made it!’ That’s our clue we’re in the right spot. As he points out which trees he thinks is which, he begins to tell us about each one.
El Viejo del Norte is the 5th largest single-stem Redwood tree in the world. Del Norte Titan is the 3rd largest single-stem Redwood and the 18th largest tree in the world. Lost Monarch is the largest multi-stem Redwood tree in the world and the largest in the Grove of Titans.
Read more about my experience in the Grove of Titans here
While it’s apparent there’s a problem with off-trail traveling, I maintain following the Leave No Trace principles and stay on trail. AS SHOULD YOU! Luckily I have my zoom lens so I can try and photograph the beauties from here.
Exiting the Trails
For about another mile we wind through the rest of the gorgeous Mill Creek Trail. Almost immediately after the leaving the Grove of Titans, stunning colors begin to make their appearance.
With tones so rich and vibrant, it’s like the autumnal gods came out to show me their best work. Massive golden maple leaves, bigger than my head, scatter the ground as we climb our way under fallen Redwood trees to continue on the trail.
What I didn’t know before coming to Jedediah Smith Redwoods was that it’s the wettest spot in all of California. That’s definitely noticeable when exploring on the rest of the Mill Creek Trail! While the tones and hues aren’t long-lasted, they soon transform back into that rainforest-like vegetation of ferns.
This was no doubt the most beautiful autumnal walk I have ever been on! After nearly a mile, the path crosses a walk bridge over to the Howland Hill Road.
And it ends up being a sweet deal that Howland Hill Road was closed down. I waltz through that ground covered in pine needles through the massive Redwood trees with a smile on my face.
I just saw the most stunning grove ever and during optimal fall colors, what more could I ask for?!
Read More Nature Travel Posts HereBefore heading into the backcountry, it’s imperative that you’re familiar with the “Leave No Trace” principles.
Read More: Leave No Trace: The 7 Rules of the Backcountry
Learn more about Leave No Trace on their website here.
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So you guys were able to walk through the Grove of Titans without going off trail? I was happy to see you mentioned something as before and after pictures of the area is heart breaking.
We stayed on trail as much as we could! There were many heavy-cut spur trails that sometimes we realized we were off the original and would turn around. As of today, this trail is under renovation until next year. They will be installing a walkway through the area to prevent off-trail travel as well as interpretive points to learn more about the trees, which I am so happy about!